Spotlight on Gastronomy
The Montreal en Lumière festival is an annual winter event that allows visitors to explore and taste contemporary gastronomy. Restaurateurs and artisans have the opportunity to captivate attendees who come to experience new flavors or discover new products. Of course, there’s also plenty of talk about gastronomy!
Each year, the festival highlights a region of Quebec. Last year, the products from the Côte-Nord region were featured. This year, the Quartier Gourmand shines a light on the flavors of the Îles-de-la-Madeleine. Located on the second floor of the Astral, this gourmet hall offers, among other things, opportunities to meet some local Madelinot producers.
A Taste of the Islands
I had the chance to sample products from the boutique L’Anse aux Herbes, which specializes in aromatic oils and seasonings that showcase local ingredients, including sea parsley and seaweeds.
The owner, Nouane Giguère, grows a wide variety of herbs on her family land and passionately explained the harvesting and drying processes for both cultivated and wild plants used in her products.
It was also possible to taste scallops and smoked salmon from the company Le Fumoir d’Antan. Forget the aftertaste of supermarket frozen smoked salmon — the smoking techniques here completely enhance the flavor of seafood.
Heirs to traditional smoking and curing methods passed down by their grandfather, the third-generation Arseneau family still operates in the company’s original location on Chemin du Quai in Havre-aux-Maisons. Despite the fatigue of the event, Benoît Arseneau (Benoît à Benoît) enthusiastically explained how herring is smoked. What was meant to be a quick tasting turned into a lively two-hour conversation! Warm, generous people sharing their product and their corner of the world — what a wonderful encounter!
It’s also possible to sample products from Fromagerie du Pied-de-Vent, which has the unique distinction of being certified “Canadian heritage cow cheese.” This designation highlights products made from the milk of this specific breed of cow.
In 1999, the Canadian cow was designated a heritage breed under Quebec’s Agricultural Heritage Animal Breeds Act. Although slightly less productive than other breeds, the Canadian cow provides milk rich in protein and fat.
This unique cheese inspired the chefs at Zeste du Monde Catering to create a popular appetizer: pork tenderloin raclette with Pied-de-Vent cheese and Jack Daniels apples — a favorite with clients!
Heritage and Traditions
The culinary identity of the Îles-de-la-Madeleine reflects the resources available and the know-how passed down through generations. Here are a few signature dishes from this magnificent region of Quebec:
- Tchaude aux Palourdes
A typical clam chowder from the Îles-de-la-Madeleine, featuring clams and potatoes in a light white sauce. - La Bagosse
Also known as “île beer,” this is a traditional artisanal alcohol whose recipe varies from family to family. Made from local island ingredients — fruits, flowers, and sometimes even seaweed — each recipe offers unique flavors. - Smoked Herring
Traditional fish preservation techniques are still used on the islands. Herring, for example, is smoked for three months over a perpetual fire, resulting in a fully dehydrated fish that crunches when bitten. - Croxignoles
Croxignoles are braided doughs that are then fried in… seal oil! This preparation is mainly reserved for special occasions, such as the Seal Festival.
This festival coincides with the time of year when seals (Greenland seals) arrive on the ice near the Îles-de-la-Madeleine to give birth. It’s also the season for seal hunting (rest assured, nobody hunts the pups). Seal fat is rendered at high heat to produce oil, similar to the process for lard.
In the Heart of the Saint Lawrence
The Îles-de-la-Madeleine archipelago, covering 230 km² in the Gulf of Saint Lawrence, is made up of about a dozen islands, including Grande-Entrée, Pointe-aux-Loups, Havre-aux-Maisons, Cap-aux-Meules, Havre Aubert, and Grosse Île.
Given its geographic location, it’s no surprise that seafood plays a central role in Madelinot cuisine. Fishing is the main economic activity on the islands, followed closely by tourism. Lobster, snow crab, scallops, herring, and mackerel all bring rich flavors to the table.
So, when is your next trip to the islands?
Looking forward to it!
